Buying a chinchilla is something you should never rush into below are a few beginners things to consider.

You should research what their every needs are, but since you’re reading this I guess you already are?!

Things to consider;

Age
Sleep
Handling
Expense
Gnawing
Exercise
Training
Choosing a Chinchilla


Age
Chins can live anywhere between 10-15yrs of age and in some cases they can exceed 20yrs.

It is a long-term commitment, which should not be taken lightly.


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Sleep
Chinchillas are naturally nocturnal animals.

So when you’re awake, up and about during the day and ready for a play they will be fast asleep. Usually from my experience they wake early evening in-between 6-8 o’clock.


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Handling
Most chins do not like being picked up and held.

However they do love being tickled under their chins and staying still for treats!


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Expense
Initially buying a chinchilla (or two), it’s cage, food and accessories is expensive.

But the actual cost of keeping it (them) doesn’t in my experience usually exceed more then £10 per month.


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Gnawing
Chinchillas chew everything!

Please be very thorough and careful in safeguarding wires and valuable furniture from chins as they chew everything. Make sure plants are removed or raised out of the way. Teeth and jaws should be checked regularly for any abnormalities.


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Exercise
Chinchillas need daily, not excess exercise.

A chinchilla should be let out for a play once a day, never longer then 20 minutes as this can cause exhaustion. Catching them can be a nightmare – you have been warned!!! Make sure all small gaps are blocked. If in the bathroom ensure the toilet lid is closed and monitor the temperature so it doesn’t become too warm.


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Training
If your chinchilla is bought from a reputable breeder this should not be too difficult.

As they will of handled the chinchilla since birth it should be friendly and have no nasty traits bred in. I use ‘training’ in the broad sense of the word, as chinchillas are not like cats and dogs, they will not sit, fetch and play on demand, neither will they come when you call. However they can be trained to a certain degree.

When you first bring your chinchilla home you should allow him/her time to settle in, after a couple of days they should be getting familiar with their new home, sounds and environment. A good way to help a chinchilla settle in is to play some music (quietly) but make sure the wires/cables are not within chewing distance! Begin by feeding some treats (1 or 2! I know it’s tempting to feed them lots, but ultimately you could make your chin very poorly) daily. Don’t be frightened to pick it up, I know it is nerve racking the first few times but you will get used to it. With one hand under the belly and back legs to fully support your chin, your other hand should hold the base of the tail, firmly but not tightly.

It is a good idea at play times (once you have chinny proofed the wires and valuables etc!) to sit in the middle of the room and let your chin sniff, play and run all over you.

In my experience there is no actual time in which a chinchilla will be more friendly with you (apart from treat time!), it is a very time consuming, but enjoyable thing. You will soon get to know all you chins little habits and character traits, as they will yours.

Bonding with your chinchilla is one of the best things about owning them. But remember all chins are different just like us and it will take time to get to know them. Have fun…


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Choosing a chinchilla
When choosing where to buy your chinchilla, I would advise only buying from a reputable breeder, as pet shops and independent rescue centres often do not have the background of the animal, know the correct age or even tell you the truth and right advice about the chin in question.

As with most reputable breeders you should receive a full and comprehensive pedigree (basically a family tree).

You should be careful to check its teeth, ears, eyes, fur, feet and droppings for any irregularities. Healthy teeth should look like the chinchilla to the left- the teeth should be of yellow colouration, and not be too long, they should be straight and in line.

I did try to take a picture of Magic’s feet, ears and eyes he was very obliging to take the two photo’s above but refused to have the next one done as he didn’t wish to stay still for more then 2 seconds!!!

Their feet should have no bad sores, infections or limps.

Don’t worry too much if it looks tough and a little dry as chins feet aren’t their best feature and all that sitting on the wire cages will have caused it. An animal moisturiser, such as tea tree cream for small pets should clear it up and is available from most good pet shops.

Their ears should not be scaly, tiny rips and blemishes do occur sometimes if the parent and kit, mating partners or kit and kit have disagreements.

The eyes should in no way be runny; this is either an infection or worse, malocclusion. They should instead be clear and bright.

Droppings should be firm, not sticky or runny.

The fur should be intact and not chewed or matted.

You should pick up the chinchilla feel along it’s spine if it is very boney, this could be a deficiency in food or a genetic defect, most commonly occurring when small colours are breed to small colours. The influence of a standard should always be used to maintain the quality, which any reputable breeder does (see Breeding and Hand Rearing).
 

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For everything they need please see Cages & Accessories before buying a chin.