There are a few essential items you must purchase before you bring your new pet home;

Cage
Food Bowl
Dust Bath and Sand
Water Bottle
Fresh Food
Gnawing, Mineral & Chewing Blocks
Nest Box



Cage
Perhaps the most important item your chinchilla will need is a new house to live in.

The cage should be made from wire, as a chin will chew through anything else (wood and plastic).

It should be an adequate size for the chinchilla to get exercise and live a healthy happy life.

An ideal size for a single chin is shown below;



Cage by Paul Spooner www.chillaquip.freeuk.com



Specification: 24"long x 18" wide x 24" high, two softwood shelves, built-in hayrack,
feed dish retaining clip, water bottle holder/protector, slide-in galvanised steel droppings tray.



Height is not essential, and can be dangerous if your chinchilla climbs and falls it could break a bone or its neck, this can occur especially in kits.

If you own or wish to buy a pair of chinchillas, the ideal cage should look similar to the one below;



Cage by Paul Spooner www.chillaquip.freeuk.com




Specification: 36" long x 18" wide x 24" high, two softwood shelves, built-in hayrack,
water bottle holder/protector, feed dish retaining clip, slide-in galvanised steel droppings tray.


Always buy your cage from a reputable breeder, I advise Paul Spooner as he is reasonably priced and owns the right equipment to make the cage correctly, (you can visit his great site for cages and accessories on www.chillaquip.freeuk.com)

Often Pet shops and other such suppliers will sell an overpriced plastic or wooden cage that is not right for your chin.

On many occasions I have seen long tall birdcages being sold as suitable cages for chins, which they are not. Generally speaking these pet shops never know where the chin is going, so don’t care about the type of cage it lives in, whereas a reputable breeder will usually offer advice and further contact after a purchase has been made with them.

The wire should not have large gaps as they may get their feet caught, causing injuries.

Ideally the cage should be mounted on a wall or stood on a stand, as they do not like being leaned over and overshadowed.

A clear airflow is needed but not drafts, these can kill a chinchilla, as can heat exhaustion if the temperature exceeds 29 degrees.

The cage should not be positioned in direct sunlight as it can become too hot for them.

The room in which the cage lives should by light airy and dry, NOT damp, as this can cause fur fungus, bathrooms should be avoided.

When transporting the chinchilla you should think carefully as to what you will carry it in, as if it is a long distance trip it will chew a plastic carry box, which could make it ill. Also, a cardboard box will pose no obstacle to a chinchilla, as we found once when travelling in a car on a 3hr journey to a show, we discovered 2 of our chins having a run around in the back of the car! This can be dangerous for the driver and chinchilla. The best form of carrying a chin is shown below;



Cage by Paul Spooner www.chillaquip.freeuk.com

This is an official show cage and ideal for transporting your chin.



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Food Bowl
The food bowl should not be made out of plastic it should be metal or hard pot (like a rabbit bowl) it should be heavy or attached to the cage as chins will knock it over and you will end up spending a fortune on food!

Below is a picture of an ideal food trough and dust bath;



Products made by Paul Spooner www.chillaquip.freeuk.com



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Dust Bath and Sand
Chinchillas are not like other animals and humans when it comes to bath time, they should NOT be wet as it is very bad for them and their fur. Because their fur is so dense they need to bath (roll around) in sand as it separates the hairs and cleans the chin.

A bath should be given everyday, or at least four times a week, if not the chinchilla can become greasy to touch and look at. The bath should not be left in for more then an hour and should be nice and clean, free from damp or droppings every time it is used. Personally I sieve my sand for one week and then buy fresh this way I’m not spending a fortune but my chins are clean and happy.

Again anything other then metal and a chin will chew! The picture above shows an ideal dust bath.

The correct sand should be chinchilla dust only; it is about 70p a bag and is available at most pet shops. DO NOT use ordinary sand, as it is too thick.

When the chin has a bath it is lovely to see but they fling it everywhere so don’t give him/her a bath if you are expecting visitors!

A lot of people feel they must put lots of sand in for the chin to have a really good bath, in fact the opposite is true, only a small layer a couple of cm high should be put in at any one time for the chin to thoroughly enjoy it’s bath.

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Water Bottle
Again the golden rule that chins chew everything applies, so it is best to buy a glass water bottle rather then plastic, as you may find you’re replacing them quite often.

The water bottle should be positioned on the outside of the cage at a level where the chin has to reach up (not stretch as far as it can), this is good for the digestion.

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Fresh Food
Chinchillas should be fed on good quality chinchilla pellets ONLY, never feed a chinchilla food that looks like rabbit food, but claims it’s for chinchillas, this does not contain the correct diet, it make look nice and they love it but it is potentially dangerous to your chin digestive system and health, everything they need to live a long happy, healthy life is in the pellets. Unfortunately a certain make of food I see (which I can’t name for legal reasons) being used time and time again by chinchilla owners; is not good at all.

A chinchilla should be given 1-2tbsp of pellets per day.

Of course treats can be given, but only in moderation, I know how tempting it is to feed them all sorts of treats, but you are only doing it harm. Too many sweet things, such as their favourites; raisons can lead to diabetes or diarrhoea, which again are potential killers to chinchillas.

The treats that can be given in moderation are:

Rivita

Apple

Carrot

Raisins

Unsugared dried bananas (NOT fresh)

Dried apricots (Unsugared)

Raisin Wheat

A supplement which can be given occasionally to spice up feed times is Alfalfa, which may be loose or come in small cubes, depending on your pet shop.

A little fresh hay should be given everyday; it should be stored in a dry cool place.

If the hay becomes damp in any way, harmful spores can be released, this can lead to fur fungus, which can be very difficult and expensive to treat, so please check it regularly.


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Gnawing, Mineral and Chewing Blocks
I think I have mentioned before that chinchillas love to chew?! Well they certainly do, that is why it is very important to supply them with something safe to do it on.

Untreated pine and apple logs are safe, however these can produce splinters which if caught between their teeth can cause them to grow uneven, possibly causing malocclusion. In my opinion the best thing to use are cuttlefish bones as they are harmless.

Mineral blocks can also be given to chinchillas and are available from most good pet shops.

Something else that can be given as a plaything is a toilet or kitten roll inner tube, they love these, but it is usually gone within 2 days!


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Nest Box
Chinchillas like to sleep in nest boxes; they should be placed safely at the highest point of the cage, as in the wild they would sleep in holes high up.

Like shelves in their cages these nest boxes produce welcome release from sitting on the wire all day.

If a female is giving birth and a nest box is available to her, she will usually always give birth inside it.

We do sell nest boxes made of untreated finest softwood; they are £5 each, or we also make smaller boxes to fit in all cages including polygamous, these are £3.50 for more details pls email below:
 


lizzbenson@chinnychinchins.co.uk


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