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On this page I have tried to highlight the main and common illnesses
and aliments of chinchillas, their causes, cures and preventions.
Fur Chewing
Malocclusion
Spurs
Seizures
Diarrhoea
Constipation
Incontinence
Bloat
Fur Fungus
Bumble Foot
Respiratory
Problems
Summary
Fur Chewing
Many discussions have been made as to the cause and problem of fur
chewing. Unfortunately there is no true cure for this illness. Some blame
in on poor breeding, whilst others blame it on stress, boredom or just bad
habits (like us biting our nails or picking our nose).
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Fur missing from
the sides and shoulders of the chinchilla. A moth-eaten, chewed patchy
appearance with the show of darker under coat (see picture).
Chinchilla can
chew itself and others it is in contact with. |
Bad habit,
boredom, stress, breeding, hormones, isolation, irritation of
pregnancy can be very common. |
No real
treatment. If it suddenly occurs, look at any changes of food,
environment or partner. Make sure a fresh supply of hay is given daily
and toys such as; cuttlefish, toilet roll inner tubes and mineral
blocks are given. |
Avoid creating a
stressful atmosphere, keep things quiet, cool not cold; avoid over and
under handling. Provide plenty of stimuli. |
Below shows a badly fur chewed female, the owner had left her 2
daughters in too long and as a result she became stressed and worn out.
She also chewed her two daughters.

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Malocclusion
As chinchillas are members of the rodent family their teeth (and roots)
continue to grow constantly, they can grow 2-3inches per year.
If the alignment of the teeth does not grow parallel, malocclusion can
occur. Malocclusion is when the teeth begin to grow in a spiral shape into
the chinchilla, they overlap when they meet. This is an incurable disease
with agonising effects leading to death. Watery eyes and drooling are the
most common symptoms; watery eyes occur when the roots of the upper molars
rub on the back of the eyes, this causes the animal considerable pain and
irritation.
It is genetically carried so a chin with or carrying malocclusion should
NEVER be bred from.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Watery eye or
eyes, pawing through food, loss of appetite, weight loss, lumps under
jaw line, drooling. |
Genetic makeup,
sharp object trapped in-between teeth, such as splinter from a log,
broken teeth, too little or no gnawing materials, and calcium
deficiency. |
No treatment.
Animal will have a shortened life with discomfort leading to immense
pain. Chin will have to be put down. |
Do NOT breed
from a chin with or carrying malocclusion, give cuttlefish as an
alternative to wood. |
The pictures below shows a healthy chinchillas teeth:
Picture very kindly supplied by the UK Research into chinchillas tooth
disease at
http://www.dacross.demon.co.uk/chinchilla/index.html

Whereas the picture below, quite disturbingly shows a chinchilla with
malocclusion:
Picture very kindly supplied by the UK Research into chinchillas tooth
disease at
http://www.dacross.demon.co.uk/chinchilla/index.html

Note how the teeth grow in a spiral shape, growing into the eye sockets
and jawbone.
The progression of tooth elongation and associated changes :
Picture very kindly supplied by the UK Research into
chinchillas tooth disease at http://www.dacross.demon.co.uk/chinchilla/index.html

Marginal crown elongation. No clinical signs expected.

Dramatic crown elongation with minimal effect on occlusion.
Elongated tooth roots obstruction the lacrimal duct.

Greater crown and root elongation with increased tooth curvature.
Interproximal gaps are present in both skull 252 and 257.
Food impaction and periodontal disease were present.
A chinchilla bred from a chinchilla with malocclusion will not necessarily
have it itself; it has a 50% chance and you cannot tell from just looking,
at the 6mth age it is a good idea to have the chin x-rayed. This chin
should not be bred from.
Not all teeth problems in chinchillas are malocclusion; if you suspect any
of the following please contact professional vetinary assistance:
The information below is very kindly
supplied by the UK Research into chinchillas tooth disease at
http://www.dacross.demon.co.uk/chinchilla/index.html
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The dental
problems identified in UK chinchillas include:
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Incisor crown elongation
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Abnormal incisor wear pattern
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Incisor root deformity
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Missing incisor teeth
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Coronal elongation of cheek teeth
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Gaps between cheek tooth crowns
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Periodontal pocketing
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Periodontal food impaction
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Periodontal abscessation
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Tipping of cheek teeth
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Increased cheek tooth curvature
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Altered alveolar bone anatomy
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Spike formation on cheek teeth
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Cheek tooth occlusal irregularity
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Cheek tooth occlusal caries
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Interproximal caries cavities
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Cheek tooth root elongation
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Altered periapical bone anatomy
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Swelling of the ventro-lateral
surface of the mandible
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Maxillary cheek tooth root
intrusion behind the eyes
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Obliteration of lacrimal ducts by
elongated cheek tooth roots
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Gross cheek tooth root deformity
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Microscopic tooth root deformity
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Dental dysplasia
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Odontoclastic resorptive lesions
of cheek tooth roots
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Ankylosis of tooth roots to
alveolar bone
The pattern of
disease is similar to that seen in domestic rabbits.
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Scientific Name: Chinchilla Lanigera
Diet: Herbivore
Origin: Domestic
Skull Size:
Length = 6cm
Width = 3.58cm
Height = 3cm
Below shows a diagram of a different tooth problem, the
top set of teeth on this chinchilla, the right side was fine, however
the left were misaligned, the 'tooth' is growing in alignment with the
3rd back one there is no step and they are both 'even' together. This
will cause no problem eating but this could cause spurs.

Picture courtesy of breeding and caring for chinchillas
by Egon Mosslacher
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Spurs
We have established chinchillas teeth (and roots)
continue to grow constantly, they can grow 2-3inches per year.
alot of the time teeth problems are associated with malocclusion, but
Spurs are also a common occurrence, a spurs are a
Osteoarthritis condition in which bony growths project outward from the
ends of a bone in a joint.
awaiting pic
Picture kindly supplied by
Margaret of chinquest
and chinwags
The spurs or points of the teeth can do serious damage
to your chinchilla if it goes untreated. Watch for any changes in your
chinchillas eating habits, excessive drooling, or even diarrhoea. Having
your vet perform an oral exam on your chinchilla can help prevent the
teeth from overgrowing. However, if this happens to your pet, it is
easily treated with a tooth trim or by burring by your vet.
Depending on how quickly the teeth grow, it can be 3 weeks to 9
months before they will need doing again, but as the teeth grown
continually it is unlikely a total cure will ever occur.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Watch for any changes in your
chinchillas eating habits, excessive drooling, or even diarrhoea.
Also common is
Watery eye or
eyes, pawing through food, loss of appetite, weight loss, drooling.
VERY
similar to malocclusion, symptoms dependant of progressing and time
of diagnosis. |
Genetic makeup,
sharp object trapped in-between teeth, such as splinter from a log,
broken teeth, too little or no gnawing materials, and calcium
deficiency, incorrect jaw alignment. |
Burring and
filing - this illness requires vet treatment ASAP. |
Correct
Chinchilla diet promotes
their natural chewing behaviour reduces risk of misalignment. |
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Seizures
Seizures, fits or convulsions can be very scary and have happened to one
of our chinchillas (who is now fine thankfully). She literally looked dead
she was very limp and lifelessness and we didn’t know what to do, so I
hope this helps;
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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No symptoms
leading up to seizure, just happens. Appears lifelessness, limp,
uncomfortable even dead. Can have muscle spasms.
Stretching of hind
and fore legs, temporary movement loss (paralysis). |
Constipation,
becoming pregnant for the first time at an older age, lack of
minerals, calcium or vitamins, excess salt or exercise, toxin
infection, heat exhaustion and starvation, stress |
If a deficiency
add some vitamin and mineral drops to their water. Reduce intake of
salt. Increase calcium with a cuttlefish. |
Don’t let your
chin run out more then 20mins it can become exhausted, and NEVER chase
it round the room. Ensure fresh food is given daily. Don’t tease and
overexcite by tempting treats. |
When this happened to our Molly it was because she became pregnant at
the age of 3 for the first time, we were very panicked but remained calm
so as not to distress her further, when it happened we laid her on a towel
on top of a hot water bottle on my knee, stroked and quietly talked to
her. After 5 minuets or so she began to move a little and after just 15
she was fine, we monitored her closely for some time, but she has been
fine ever since (touch wood) and she has now had 2 healthy babies!
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Diarrhoea
Another nasty I’m afraid. Like all illnesses in chinchillas this one
is serious. It can often appear from nowhere and be very difficult to
treat. Time, and catching it early is the great importance here.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Weak and
listless, droppings appear loose, stick to cage, paper lining, and
other chins. Weight loss, dehydration in more serious cases droppings
can be covered in mucus or contain blood. |
Too many treats,
such as raisons or prunes. Infection, change in diet, un-fresh hay or
water (and bottle), youngsters gorging on food when weaned. |
One of the best
treatments is brown well done/burnt toast, the charcoal is good for
the problem and helps dry up the Diarrhoea. Give this a few times
daily. Allow only fresh pellets and water for 24hrs (no hay or
treats). If more severe sometimes it is best is to starve the chin for
12hrs, allowing only water.
Burnt toast,
pellets and water for the next 24hrs. You can also allow your Chin
1tsp of yoghurt; (mine prefer apple or strawberry). You can give 2 or
3tsp of this during the 24 hour period after the starvation at various
times during the day. Your chinny will love it as well as it helping
to make him better. This helps balance out the bacteria in the
digestive system.
Kaolin liquid
(available from chemists) can be given daily, 1-3ml. |
Clean cage and
accessories. Fresh, regular balanced diet with vitamin and mineral
blocks as supplements. Treats in moderation only. Avoid disturbing
nocturnal cycle. |
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Constipation
Constipation can just happen and in most cases it is more uncomfortable
for the chin rather then life threatening. Nevertheless it should be
treated will care and respect as untreated it can be very serious.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Chin can appear
lifelessness, uncomfortable, stretching up on hind legs, lack of
appetite droppings small, hard thin. |
Excess treats,
pregnancy or after the birth, lack of exercise |
If not severe it
can be treated with extra raisons and a couple of prunes work wonders.
If more serious you can also administer a teaspoon full of Syrup of
Figs using a pipette. Or 1ml of liquid paraffin per day. |
Regular
exercise. No excess diet 1-2tbsp of fresh pellets per day. |
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Incontinence
Incontinence is very rare in chinchillas, before this year I had never
experienced a case before, but I had seen one when I visited a larger
breeder, at this time I also read about a case on a chinchilla forum but
it wasn't until then and 3 years into breeding that I had come across
it.
Very little information about the illness can be found on the web or
in books, so I can only give you details of my case and my treatment. In
September I bred a beautiful Wilson white male, but he always appeared
to trickle on himself when he urinated and his bottom was never clean,
gradually the progression of the problem grew. I consulted a vet who had
also never encountered such a condition, so I gave him what information
I had! It was obvious though that it would be too difficult to operate
and if things worsened as chinchillas internally are so tiny and
delicate, I thought he may have to be put to sleep. I persisted with
antibiotics hoping it was just an infection, these did not clear it and
it became worse. He is happy within himself and he has no scalds, so he
is living with a lady who is able to dedicate the time to give him the
treatment he needs daily.
In very bad cases the wetting can be so bad urine scald can occur to
the skin, this is where repeated exposure to the skin of the urine
causes a burn type irritation to the area of skin affected.
Urinary tract infection (UTI) can also be the cause of incontinence,
this is when Bacteria can infect the urinary tract (kidneys and/or
bladder), just as they can many other organ systems. Your vet is the
best person to advise you on the proper course of action in case of a
UTI, but in my case a course of Baytrill was administered.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Chin can appear
to
urinate on him/herself Bad staining to the chinchilla rear end in
very (as per pic). In very bad cases the entire belly can be wet-
when this occurs if left scalding to the skin can occur.
Mild incontinence can also be caused by
infection like cystitis or bladder stones. |
Genetic deformity of the urinary
system, resulting in
incontinence. |
Veterinary treatment/diagnosis is essential.
If mild it will hopefully by temporary and
usually clears with a course of antibiotics like Baytrill
it can be cleaned with regular dust baths.
In very bad
cases
Hibiscrub
diluted with warm water should be used to
clean the affected area, sudocrem can be applied to sooth any urine
scald. |
If temporary
then prevention is clean cage, regular and suitable diet.
If severe then
you should consider not breeding from the parents, it is likely if
you breed with the affected animal this will cause discomfort and
secondary infection to both breeding parties. |
  
This is a pic of Smudger, he was beautiful, at 5 months old
he is now living with a lady who is going to care
for him as long as possible. for more info on this subject, pls
see Debbie Cave's wetters item:
http://www.azure-chinchillas.co.uk/pages/incontinence.php
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Bloat
Not to be confused with constipation, bloat is a rare occurrence when hay
is freshly cut and fed to chins without sufficient maturing.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Chin can appear
lifelessness, uncomfortable, a bloated ‘doughy’ belly. Loss of
appetite leading to weight loss. Sticky droppings covered in brownish
mucus. |
Too many greens.
Un-matured hay being the biggest cause. |
Regular
exercise. 1ml of milpar liquid (available from the chemist) given 3x
daily until an improvement is noticed. |
Regular
exercise. Only feed well-matured hay. |
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Fur Fungus
I have just recently experienced this in two of my best chinchillas, it
was very worrying but soon cleared up once I began the treatment.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Loss of hair,
usually on nose, eyes and genitals; places where the chinchilla cleans
a lot through irritation. And on the feet and tail. Spreads on entire
body. Chins can become withdrawn, lifeless and loose appetite leading
to weight loss. |
Damp and humid
atmosphere, damp hay releasing spoors that cause the infestation.
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Isolation from
the herd - Is HIGHLY contagious. Clean and sterilize all cages, baths,
food bowls and water bottles used by infected chin(s). Throw away all
chews, blocks and toys also used. Anti-fungal powder or athletes foot
powder in the bath. |
Clean cages
regularly. Only give fresh hay, check for damp in debris. Add 1tbsp of
athlete foot powder to all baths. |
Please notice the picture below is of one of my youngsters that
developed an untypical case of fur fungus, he only lost fur from his
chest, which has now thankfully cleared up:

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Bumble Foot
Bumble foot is the slang term for ulcerative pododermatitis. It's a
bacterial infection usually caused by Staphylococcus aureus. Other
bacteria may at times cause this problem but most often it is the S.
aureus causing the problem. "Staph infection" is S. aureus bacteria
which are everywhere in the environment including inside your nose. It's
normal and doesn't always cause disease but it will when it gets into a
place that it shouldn't be.
The problem most often begins with a wire floored cage. Walking on
that wire all the time will cause abrasions on the feet this allows the
bacteria to enter; then we have infection. Other causes are anything
that breaks the skin then allows the bacteria to move in. It's very
important to keep those cages disinfected and extremely clean at all
times.
The "bumbles" that grow are keratinized tissue that looks like an
overgrowth of skin or basically a huge lump. These lumps will bleed off
and on. This intermittent bleeding can cause anaemia, a dangerous thing
for a any small mammal. When you see these bumbles you may think they
are tumours but actually they are closed abscesses. If this infection is
left untreated eventually it will spread to bone and/or the blood
stream. If this happens then it can lead to fatal infection.

Picture kindly supplied by Debbie Cave of
Azure chinchillas
(she is a wealth of knowledge pls check her
site)
http://www.azure-chinchillas.co.uk
Surgery is not a practical solution because these "bumbles" can bleed
too heavily and may cause the rat to bleed to death. Once bumble foot
takes hold it is very difficult to treat, steroids don't work, anti
fungal creams and triple anti biotic creams will not work.
Your first step when you begin treatment is to throw out any bedding,
wood and shelves in the cage. New wood and shelves must be added. Carpet
samples with woven not plastic backs can bee added to the cage for extra
comfort.
Systemic and topical antibiotics must be given (via a trip to the
vet) The next step is to find the generic chlorhexidine or the brand
name Nolvasan solution, you need to have it to flush these bumbles
daily. This is an antiseptic/disinfectant. It's a very necessary
component for the treatment. Your vet can provide this for you and show
directions of use.
Next you need a product called Blu-Kote. This is a farm animal
topical treatment for skin infections. Purple spray (used for horses
made by Robinsons) can also be used as topical treatment.
flush the feet at least twice a day with the chlorhexidine/Nolvasan
antiseptic. Then once a day spray the Blu-Kote directly onto the
bumbles. Using it more than once a day will cause too much irritation to
the skin. Change the bedding daily and wipe down the cage with the
chlorhexidine. It may take up to two months for this to work but you
should begin to see some results after two weeks. The bumbles should
begin to shrink and their bleeding should begin to occur much less
often. It seems that the combination of all of these steps is what will
do the trick to rid your rat of this affliction. Leaving out any of the
steps may cause your efforts to fail.
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Sore cracked feet, bleeding and swelling,
listlessness, loss of appetite, withdrawn and weak. |
Bacteria. Too much exposure to wire cages.
Cuts, sores bites to feet. |
Antibiotics, daily antiseptic cleaning of
cage and feet, blue-kote or purple spray. |
Clean cages, regular antiseptic used to
clean, wooden shelves and platforms.
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Respiratory Problems
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Symptoms |
Causes |
Treatment |
Prevention |
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Chin can appear
lethargic, runny nose; rubbing of nose, sneezing, chest pains (can
appear to have hunchback like stance) wheezing, heavy or shallow
breaths, and loss of appetite, weight loss. |
Drafts,
infection, cold, damp and stress. |
Quiet and warm
conditions. TLC |
Keep away from
infected hosts; avoid placing cage in drafts, damp, or humid areas. |
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Summary
If you feel any unease to your chinchilla’s condition and treatment please
don’t hesitate to contact a veterinarian, if you are not satisfied with
them go to another until you are. I know myself I am not comfortable with
one vet I visited when he commented on my chinchillas back feet as
‘clubbed’, of course his feet were fine this vet had never seen a chin
before so I did my research and found another who had treated chinchillas
successfully. However I always try to treat my chins myself and ask the
advice of reputable breeders before going to the vets, who I have only had
to visit twice (touch wood!).
If you feel unsure about any of the above information please feel free to
contact me, I do not claim to be an expert but I do know people who have
been breeding chins for 20+ years who may be able to help if I can’t.
lizzbenson@chinnychinchins.co.uk
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